Why DIY Oil Changes Are Worth Learning
Changing your own oil saves money, builds mechanical confidence, and gives you complete control over what goes into your engine. Once you've done it twice, it takes under 30 minutes. Here's how to get it right from the start.
What You'll Need
- The correct oil type and quantity (check your owner's manual)
- A new oil filter (get the correct filter for your vehicle's make, model, and year)
- A drain pan large enough to catch all the old oil
- A socket wrench set and the correct size for your drain plug
- An oil filter wrench (optional but helpful for tight filters)
- A funnel
- Car ramps or jack stands (never work under a car on a floor jack alone)
- Gloves and rags
- A torque wrench (recommended)
Step 1: Warm the Engine Briefly
Run the engine for 2–3 minutes to warm the oil slightly — warm oil drains faster and carries more contaminants with it. Don't run it to full operating temperature — hot oil can cause burns. Slightly warm is ideal.
Step 2: Safely Raise and Secure the Vehicle
Use drive-up ramps or jack the vehicle and place it on jack stands. Never crawl under a vehicle supported only by a hydraulic floor jack. Engage the parking brake and use wheel chocks for added safety.
Step 3: Locate and Remove the Drain Plug
Slide under the vehicle and locate the oil pan drain plug — it's typically at the lowest point of the engine oil pan. Place your drain pan below it. Using the correct socket, loosen the drain plug counterclockwise. Once loose, remove it by hand while directing oil flow into the pan. Watch for the plug — don't drop it into the pan.
Let the oil drain completely (5–10 minutes). Inspect the drain plug washer — replace it if it's damaged or crushed flat. Many manufacturers recommend a new crush washer each time.
Step 4: Remove and Replace the Oil Filter
While the oil drains, locate the oil filter. Using your filter wrench (or by hand if accessible), turn it counterclockwise to remove. Some oil will spill — have a rag ready. Before installing the new filter, dab a thin layer of fresh oil around the new filter's rubber gasket. This ensures a proper seal and makes future removal easier. Install the new filter hand-tight, then turn an additional three-quarter turn — do not over-tighten.
Step 5: Reinstall the Drain Plug
Once oil has fully drained, reinstall the drain plug. Hand-tighten, then use your torque wrench to tighten to the manufacturer's specified torque (typically 25–35 ft-lbs for most vehicles — check your manual). Over-tightening strips the threads in the oil pan, which is an expensive repair.
Step 6: Add Fresh Oil
Lower the vehicle. Remove the oil filler cap on top of the engine, insert a funnel, and pour in the specified amount of new oil. Add about 80% of the total capacity first, then check the dipstick before adding more — it's easier to add than to remove. Replace the filler cap securely.
Step 7: Check for Leaks and Verify Level
Start the engine and let it run for about 60 seconds. The oil pressure light should go off within a few seconds. Check underneath for any drips from the drain plug or filter. If you see oil, turn the engine off immediately and tighten the leaking component. Recheck the dipstick after the engine sits for a minute — top up to the full mark if needed.
Step 8: Dispose of Old Oil Responsibly
Pour the drained oil into a sealed container (the empty oil bottles work perfectly). Most auto parts stores, service stations, and recycling centers accept used motor oil for free. Never pour it down a drain or into the trash.
Quick Reference Checklist
- Gather correct oil, filter, and tools
- Warm engine briefly
- Raise and secure vehicle safely
- Drain old oil and remove old filter
- Install new filter with oiled gasket
- Reinstall drain plug to correct torque
- Add correct amount of fresh oil
- Run engine, check for leaks, verify level
- Dispose of old oil properly